Start with the job the fence has to do

Before comparing styles, decide what the fence is for. A boundary between two back gardens has different demands from a front fence beside a pavement, and a fence that keeps a dog in is not the same as one that screens a patio from a neighbour's upstairs window. Write down the two or three things that matter most to you. Everything else, from the type of panel to the height of the posts, follows from that short list, and it stops you paying for features you will never notice.

The main types and where each suits

Close-board fencing is built from overlapping vertical boards fixed to rails between posts. It is sturdy, hard to see through and copes well with sloping ground because it can be stepped. Panel fencing uses ready-made sections slotted between posts, which makes it quicker to put up and often more modest in cost, though individual panels are lighter. Lapped panels give good privacy, while woven or slatted designs let a little air and light through. Picket styles suit front gardens where you want a neat edge rather than a screen.

  • Close-board: strong, private and good on slopes, with a solid, traditional look.
  • Panel: quicker to fit, easy to replace one section at a time.
  • Slatted or open styles: filter wind and keep light in a small space.
  • Picket or low rail: defines a front garden without closing it off.

Wind, slopes and the ground underneath

Many Birmingham gardens are open and exposed, especially long inter-war plots that back onto other gardens or open land. A completely solid fence acts like a sail in a gale, and the strain goes straight into the posts. Where wind is a worry, a fence with small gaps or a mix of solid lower boards and slatted top section can calm the wind rather than fight it. Sloping or uneven ground needs stepped panels or a close-board design, and heavy clay or loose soil may call for deeper or better supported posts.

Posts, gravel boards and what lasts

Most fence failures begin at the bottom, not the top. Wood sitting in damp soil rots, which is why a gravel board along the base is worth having: it keeps panels and boards clear of the ground and is far simpler to replace than the fence itself. Posts should be set firmly in the ground, ideally in concrete or with a post support, and the timber should be treated for outdoor use. Ask what the posts are made of and how deep they go, because that matters more than the panels.

Height, gates and what the council says

Height limits depend on where the fence stands. As a general rule, fences beside a road or at the front of a house face tighter limits than those at the back, and some properties in conservation areas have extra restrictions. Check with the local council before you order anything tall, particularly if you want to go above the usual garden height. Plan any gates at the same time, so the posts are strong enough for the weight and the gate opens the way you actually need.

Talking to neighbours and clearing the line

A shared boundary is easier when everyone knows what is happening. Tell your neighbours before work starts, show them the plan and agree where the line runs, using your deeds if you are unsure. Check the fence line for overgrown hedges, ivy or low branches that will get in the way, because it is often sensible to clear these first. We can take away the old fence and any green waste, and we often combine fencing with hedge or tree work along the same boundary.

Want it looked at properly?

Tell us what you have and we will arrange to visit, explain what is needed and give you a free, no-obligation quote. See our garden fencing page, or send us photos on WhatsApp.

Common Questions

Is close-board fencing better than panel fencing?

Neither is better in every case. Close-board is stronger, more private and handles slopes well, so it suits long boundaries and exposed gardens. Panels are quicker to fit and simpler to repair one section at a time. The right choice depends on the ground, the wind, how much privacy you want and how long you expect the fence to last.

Do I need planning permission for a new fence?

Often you do not, but it depends on the height, where the fence stands and whether the property is in a conservation area or has other restrictions. Fences beside a road tend to face tighter limits. Check with your local council before ordering anything tall, so you know the rules before work begins.

How do I stop a fence blowing down in the wind?

Most wind damage comes from weak posts or a fully solid design. Posts need to be set firmly and well supported, and in exposed gardens a style with small gaps or slatted sections lets some wind through. Keeping the timber clear of the soil with a gravel board also helps the fence stay sound.

Can you take the old fence away?

Yes. We can remove the old panels, posts and rubbish as part of the job and leave the line clear for the new fence. If there is hedge, ivy or tree growth along the boundary, we can deal with that at the same visit so the new fence goes in cleanly.